Lineaments of gratified desire.*

What a lovely surprise! After trying a few Spanish rosados (Spanish rosé) that were less than delicious, I was beginning to give up hope on finding one that I would like. I was starting to think that perhaps the French, especially the winemakers in Provence, have a corner on the market. Every rosado I had tried was very heavy, thick to the point of being syrupy, and astringent while also somehow sweet. Perhaps lovely for sangria, but not for your casual rosé drinking.

So, today after leaving the hostel, I wandered in vain looking for a wine store recommended by a friend. I couldn’t find it (will ask and report back to you). Instead, I went to a little place in Gràcia that I would have adored in New York, but being in Spain, and especially in the very neighborhoody and Catalan area of Gràcia, it has intimidated me in the past. I have gone in a few times, looked at the very handsome selection of wines, cheeses, chocolates, etc., all very gourmet and seemingly exquisite, and squeaked that I was “solo mirando” and scooted out ASAP. However, today, I had a mission. The store owner was there (I am assuming he owns the store by his proprietary air and the fact that he has been there every time I have wandered by), and I asked him if he had any dry rosados. He quickly suggested quite a few, explaining their components and was very patient with my Spanish when I tried to explain my troubled history with rosados. I chose the wine he pointed out as his favorite. He asked me to report back to him, and I promised I would, and so I shall for this wine is (almost wrote ‘divine’ but held back, you’re welcome) quite wonderful.

Now, all of you who abhor wine-talk, bear with me, but I must describe it. The color is a bit unusual for a rosé, quite dark like rosados tend to be (none of the pale pink French hues for Spain), but also with a slight purple tone…a paler version of a cross between ruby and garnet. At first taste, it is a surprise, greeting your mouth with a rich, soft currant/plum flavor, not characteristic of a rosé at all. Quickly, the acidity kicks in, washing away the fruit, followed by a very balanced minerality. It is a fairly medium bodied wine for a rosé, but somehow still leaves the impression of being very light and refreshing. I’m in love, and now, after my second glass, slightly tipsy.

Details and other tasting notes:
Barbara Forés, Rosado 2008, D.O. Terra Alta
http://www.cellerbarbarafores.com
with cheese: the combination of dryness and very round mouth create a mellow answer to the cream, very compatible.
with olives: embraces the salt! Really quite fantastic, brings out the fruitier flavors of the olives, reminding me that they are technically fruit. A nice dryness in the wine gets along well with the brine in the olives, while the mineral flavors balance the fruit.
with water: even the water tastes sweeter!

The great store:
Bodega Bonavista
a review in Time Out Barcelona, if you can read Catalan….